Sunday, April 3, 2011

Presentations in Casablanca, Reflections on American Higher Education, Finding my Passion


The second week of my internship I went to Casablanca for my first college forum at a private high school. Casablanca, or "Casa" as they call it here, is an enormous city of around seven million people. It is very western in its design and appearance with towering sky scrapers, passive aggressive taxis, and crowds of people everywhere. While Rabat is the political capitol, Casa has developed as the economic and business capitol thanks to the large port.


This port was the first sight (and smell for that matter) that I experienced upon arriving in Casa. I took a combination of train + taxi + interesting directions to finally arrive at the El-Jabr school in time for my tabling session. After arranging the table with my "Education USA" and Amideast materials, I received many questions from interested parents and students on studying in the US: How much does it cost? What is the best school? Can I get a scholarship for sports? What is a good SAT score? Which is better, a private or public university? What kind of visa do I have to apply for?



These and many more questions floated around my table that morning as did my best to provide answers in French. The visitors were very patient with my language skills, which made me feel much more confident about the presentation that I was scheduled to give that afternoon. There were 45 students crowded into the room, and for the first time during my internship experience I actually felt like an educator. I knew that these students were attending my session because they wanted to study in the US, and I had the information to help them achieve that dream. The presentation went well, and my assistant was able to clarify for the students the differences between the American and Moroccan education systems. She assisted me in answering questions after the presentation, but made sure that I had the main floor for the main portion. I was really proud of myself for jumping in and giving it my best.


After the presentation, I visited the Amideast office in Casa and met a few of the teachers who were working that afternoon. It is always interesting to see different branches of the same organization. The staff was friendly and gave me a tour of the offices and classrooms, which are labeled with American states (i.e. the "Washington" Room, the "Florida" Room) and decorated with coordinating posters from the state. I thought it was clever and cute. I was bummed to see that there was no "Oregon" room, as California and New York seem to be more popular and recognizable to international students. That's ok, I see it as my job to represent my state and teach my friends and colleagues at the Northwest US in general. After thanking the office staff and my assistant, I took a cab back to the station and caught the evening train home. It was an exciting day with lots of new experiences to build upon for the future.


Throughout my time abroad, I have developed an emotional readiness scale for myself to determine if I am prepared to experience something new. I call it having a "brave day" in which I do something that is entirely new and different from my previous experiences. The day in Casa was definitely a brave day for me.


This week I traveled to Casa again for another presentation on Graduate and MBA programs at the Ecole Nationale de Commerce et du Gestion (National School of Business and Commerce). Navigating around the city was slightly easier this time, and I was surprised to see the great turnout of 165 students for my presentation. Representatives from the US Consulate and US Embassy gave a presentation directly following on obtaining a visa for study and travel in the US, which was great for the students. I have found it very inspiring to see so many students who are taking steps in preparing to study in the US. Before going abroad, I was not aware of the popularity and prestige of the American higher education system. After interning with Amideast for several months, I have learned so much about my own education system and the systems in Morocco and Tunisia. I am proud to be a citizen of a country that many foreigners seek to improve their education and skills in order to advance their own countries upon return.


If I have learned anything during this internship experience, it is that I have developed a passion for education, specifically for helping students obtain opportunities to learn and grow as individuals in their own country and abroad. I sincerely hope that this passion and experience will guide me onto the next point in my life, wherever that may be. For now, I am taking the experiences one day at a time and enjoying what life brings me here in Morocco.


Thanks to my contacts at Amideast Casa, I was put in touch with a wonderful English couple who gave me a tour of the downtown area and invited me back to their house for dinner. After a lovely evening with fascinating conversation and more than one "linguistic misunderstanding" between our different dialects of English, I reminded myself that everything really does happen for a reason and sometimes you just have to be open to the unexpected things in life.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

Arrival to Morocco, First impressions of Rabat




Morocco!

I have now been living in Morocco for a month and am settling in quite nicely. On my very first day arriving in Casablanca I was met at the airport by two Amideast representatives holding a hand-written sign that read "Amideast Intern". I instantly felt welcomed into the country. I was very excited to meet them and get to know basics on Moroccan culture during our one hour drive north to the capitol city of Rabat. I met the Amideast host family coordinator as soon as we arrived into the city, and then we drove to my host family's house. They live in an apartment in Rabat Centreville, the main downtown area of the city. I can see the walls of the old medina, or historic neighborhood, and a large public park from the third-floor balcony. It is a 15 minute walk to the beach, and a simple 10 minute bus ride to the more lively part of downtown with cafes and fancy shops. There is always lots of traffic outside our apartment building with the daily market and main busroute nearby, which makes for an exciting place to people watch.


In my host family I have a host mom who is a retired custom's officer and a host sister studying finance at the local university. She is in her early 20's and goes out with her girlfriends often to cafes and to the medina to look for fun things to buy. It has been great to hang with her and meet her friends. They speak French and Arabic at home, and my host sister has an intermediate level of English to help me out if I get stuck somewhere. Each day I take the city bus to work at Amideast, where I am working as the Educational Advising Intern. Although I am interning for the same organization, my tasks here in Rabat are more focused towards educational outreach and maintaining our resources in the Advising Center. When students come to the center with questions on studying in the US, taking the TOEFL exam, or getting a scholarship, they come to me. I am able to advise them in English, and am also slowly working my way into advising in French as well. I make mistakes of course, but generally the students understand my main ideas and are happy to receive the information. I also have the opportunity to travel as an Amideast representative to college forums in the region, which has been a fantastic experience.


Rabat is an interesting city to live in, and I am making the most of my evenings and weekends by venturing out and exploring new places. I love the mix of French architecture and traditional Islamic architecture than can be found sometimes in the same neighborhood. The mosaic designs are incredibly beautiful, and can be found in many places of the home. Moroccan textiles reflect a similiar busy pattern with wonderfully vivid colors. My favorite part of the city so far has been the corner shop juice stands where you can get a glass of fresh squeezed orange juice for about $.40.


Again, great people watching and friendly guys who run the shop. Before coming to Morocco, I honestly did not know much about this North African country. I have done some research since I have arrived and now have a better understanding of the political system and the country's foreign affairs. I am learning more and more about the culture every day through meeting new friends and making new connections. One thing that is important to remember is that Morocco is a safe place and that there are no talks of "revolution" here. Life is good and I am enjoying every moment of it.

Monday, March 7, 2011

Christmas in Sicily, January's Jasmine Revolution, February in Sicily and Germany

Hello friends and family! Apologies for my long and unintended hiatus from my blog. I will make a much more significant effort in these next few months to post more entries and to keep everyone more informed on my travels and experiences abroad.

So . . . quick recap from the last few months:

In December I finished up the first half of my internship at Amideast-Tunis. It was a very busy time with post-IEW plans and preparing for the deadline of all the student applications for the Tomorrow's Leaders program. Everyday was a new project and a chance for me to really experience the behind-the-scenes work of an exchange program. My work was preparing the selection process and beginning to review applications as they came into the office. I also proctored another SAT early in the month, which gave me some extra spending money for Christmas presents.

I am fortunate enough to have friends all over the world and I do my best to keep in touch with people throughout the year. Friends living near Catania, Sicily invited me to their house for the holidays, and I gladly accepted. We toured around the region visiting small traditional Sicilian villages and the big city of Catania to experience a Mediterranean Christmas complete with cappucinno and cannolis. It was fantastic to walk on the beach and hike up the nearby cliffs on Christmas morning with only a light jacket while enjoying the sunshine and crisp sea breeze. Christmas dinner was a wonderful experience with an all out holiday-style dinner and friends from all over the region. I ate very well that night and enjoyed the company of military friends who had traveled all over the world thanks to their posts and personal interests. It is always great to mingle and to hear other's stories about their adventures abroad.

As always, it was difficult to leave my much needed vacation in Sicily to return to Tunis for work. I said goodbye to my friends and boarded the plane bound once again for Africa. New Year's eve was spent with Canadian and Italian friends in Tunis as we watched the satellite broadcast of countries all over the world ringing in the new year. We ate well and toasted to the upcoming year filled with new friends and new adventures.

Little did I know that when I returned to work at Amideast in January, Tunisia was already experiencing great change that would start a revolution of massive proportions. I had heard of some unrest in the south of the country, and that a young man had drenched himself in gasoline and burned himself in response to the lack of opportunity for educated youth in Tunisia. It was very difficult to find any news of the event in the local press or on the evening television reports due to Tunisia's strict censorship laws. The secret police are in fact a very big deal in Tunisia and the citizens take care to not discuss politics or their opinions on the president Ben Ali. As the days progressed, I heard more rumblings about the situation getting worse, and that the frustrations over the lack of government support were not only in the south but were a general national resentment. I was able to find a few articles on France 24, the NYtimes, and BBC online which became my primary resources for the next few months. Rumors of riots growing larger convinced the director of Amideast to close down the school for a few days until things settled down, and so the revolution began in Tunis.

Here is a Times Magazine article with more details on the revolution:
http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,2043331,00.html

I must say that I have never actually experienced a revolution from within the country, and it was so powerful to see the spirit of the Tunisian youth challenging their oppressive government by telling them "you are not doing enough for us, so we want change". Almost half of Tunisia's population are youth ages 16 - 25, many of whom have college degrees with no opportunity for work. Many of these students have become disenchanted with the system that promised a good education leading to a good job, and consequently have no option to properly support their families. I was so proud of my Tunisian friends who joined their fellow countrymen on the days of the protests to support the change that they wished to see in their own country. President Ben Ali was very stubborn with his people and did not give in easily, but eventually the pressure became too much.

During the day the military protected the government buildings and establishments, but at night the city of Tunis turned volatile. A curfew was imposed from 5:00 pm to 6:00 am in order to prevent more protests on the streets. I was instructed by my colleagues to stay indoors and not venture out at all because the police had orders to arrest anyone who looked suspicious or anyone who was gathering in groups larger than three. There were snipers on the roofs near my building, and army tanks driving in each day to protect the buildings from looters. At times it was reassuring to have so much protection around the building that I was living in, but at the same time I knew that the tanks were close because there was a chance that we would actually see some of the violence. I made sure to stay in my apartment with my friends and not go outside during the day unless it was absolutely necessary. We stockpiled as much food as we could and began to wait for things to get better in Tunis.

Each morning, I would log onto my computer and check facebook to see what had happened the night before. My Tunisian friends would post status updates, photos, and even short videos taken from their cell phones to show what was really happening. By the afternoon the videos would be taken down and oftentimes the photos would be blocked by the government. It was a pretty strange time for everyone in the country. As the portests became more violent, the death tolls started to rise and we knew that something big was going to happen. Finally President Ben Ali came on the news and said that he was stepping down as president of Tunisa. We couldn't believe it. Had this really happened? The biggest question that was on my mind was, "now what?". None of the youth who were less than 25 years old had ever voted or witnessed a real presidential campaign, and policital activism was something that only happened in secret with individuals who held strong views due to all of the censorship and press restrictions. "What is going to happen now?" I asked myself this question that night, and I am still asking it now.

Ben Ali had at least 2500 personal body guards on his payroll that acted as secret police to inform him on what was happening in his country throughout his 23 year presidency. When he fled the country he essentially told his body guards to destroy everything of value so that Tunisians could not enjoy what he had created for them. Talk about a "god-complex", right?

The apartment complex that I was staying in at the time had shops and boutiques on the first level of the building. Within days of Ben Ali leaving Tunisia, everything underneath my apartment was looted by gangs of pro-government supporters. I remember looking out my window one afternoon and seeing hundreds of people running down the hill and into the courtyard with pipes, bats, and fence posts ready to destroy the shops. I called my roommates together and we shut all the curtains and gathered in the living room together away from the windows. The sounds of yelling and smashing glass echoed up the stairwell, and I had never been so scared that our apartment would be broken into. We locked the door and braced it with a heavy cabinet and prayed that no one would venture up the stairwell. It was a very scary feeling knowing that we lived on the fourth floor and the only safe way out was through the front door. That hour is potentially the longest one that I have experienced in my life thus far.

When we heard the sound of large trucks driving down the street, we ventured toward the window to move the curtain aside. The Tunisian army haad finally showed up with more tanks and soldiers to chase away the gangs, but not before they looted everything from the shops below us and threw most of it into the street. When things had quited down outside, we ventured out onto the balcony to look down at the debris. Shop owners were arriving to check their their wares, and were sadly sweeping up the broken glass and taking what was left from the looting to better storage facilities. It was frusterating to know that these were Tunisians doing this to their own people, and that it was simply creating more problems for those who were just trying to be safe and follow the rules. Those who were loyal to Ben Ali were not going to give in easily.

The frightening part was that many of these body guards were also policemen, so the people found that they could not trust the organizations that were supposed to protect them. The army, on the other hand, remained in good graces with the Tunisian people throughout the revolution because they would not fire on innnocent protestors. In a sense, the army was called in to protect the citizens from the police and from the violent protestors.

After more than a week of protests, violence, and living under a curfew while watching the news indoors all day, my university program decided that it would be best for me to leave the country for a while until things settled down. They arranged a flight for me the enxt morning that would take me to Italy, and then onto Sicily to stay with the same friends that I had spent Christmas with just a few weeks prior. I packed what little I had with me that night and caught a cab the next morning to the airport. All foreign bank accounts had been frozen at that point to prevent the Ben Ali family from withdrawing their savings and departing the country as well. I waited in line for what seemed like hours due to all the tourists who had unfortunately been cooped up in their hotel rooms for their vacation. The flight was nice and my friends were more than happy to receive me as a "refugee" from North Africa.

It was comforting to finally be staying in a place where I felt safe. I no longer woke up at night to the sounds of gunfire outside or smashing glass, and finally felt at ease to be outside of my residence without hearing the drone of helicopters hovering overhead. The first week that I was in Sicily the tv was my main source of news to follow everything back in Tunis. I was able to access youtube for the first time in months, and Al-Jazeera in English, which allowed me to follow the events in real time. I spent five long weeks in Sicily and one week in Germany waiting for things to calm down in Tunisia so that I could return to continue my internship. At times, I wresteled with feelings of guilt for leaving my friends and my work behind, but was reminded that I had to follow my university program's guidelines.

As with all revolutions, there is no designated timeline for things to work themselves out, as it is oftentimes a people's movement that requires time effort to build a solid foundation. I knew that this was a project for Tunisians to do for themselves, and it was not a situation where I could necessarily help. I am truly fortunate to have friends in this part of the world and to have been welcomed into their homes during my time of, shall we say, "displacement" until I found a new place to go.

My university internship program advisors were fantastic in working with me throughout the time that I was gone to figure out what my next move would be. Tunisia was no longer an option, at least for the next few months. Finally, Morocco arose as a viable option because they had an Amideast office in the capitol city of Rabat. I happily accepted the offer, and made arrangements to start my new internship on March 1. Five weeks in Sicily and one week in Germany gave me a wonderful chance to relax and to process everything that had happened in Tunis, and also to prepare for future plans. I greatly enjoyed my time spent with friends and the trips that we were able to take together.

So now, as I prepare to start a new adventure in a new country, I will take with me the things that I have learned and create whole new experience.

On to Morocco!

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Photos from around Tunis

Here are some photos from the beginning of my internship experience in Tunisia as I was beginning my work at Amideast and gettling settled into Tunisian life.


Day #1 of my internship. So young a hopeful!










I love putting quotes up around my work station to remind me of my purpose and to motivate me when I am feeling pressure or stress from my projects. Here are two quotes that I have at my desk that have really inspired me during these last three months.

































The plaque for my particular department, Advising and Testing. The entrance courtyard is just on the otherside of these blue doors, and the Jasmine plant that you see growing in the corner cascades over the other side, filling the entrance with the beautiful scent of Jasmine. I still smile every day that I walk through the courtyard.






















This is the best smoothie drink in all of Tunis. It is made a little "hole in the wall" (sometimes, in the literal sense as well) shops. Fresh fruit, yogurt, and nuts are taken from the stand and put into a food processor right in front of you to become this delicious thick smoothie. To top off the presentation, it is topped with shaved coconut, ground almond powder, whole hazelnuts, and a drizzle of honey. Best afternoon snack ever!
















In Tunisia I have found the stray pet population to be much more common than in the US. Stray cats are found on nearly every street corner, and can really pull at your heartstrings with their haunting eyes and malnurished bodies. Thank goodness I am immune to their pull, as I do not harbour feelings of feline appreciation. However, there are select moments where I do enjoy their presence on my walk through town, as shown in this photo.
















Here is the tower of the Zaitouna Mosque near the old medina market in the center of downtown Tunis. I have fallen in love with Arab architecture and continually find beatuiful buildings, columns, and doorways all around Tunisia.












More photos to come soon! Thanks again for all the support and encouragement!

IEW and Photos

Now for some updates! IEW went very well, and I am quite pleased with the outcome and the spirit of teamwork and support as the deadlines approached and the mild chaos of event planning took over. The events that were hosted at Amideast this year brought in record attendance at the American Corner, the international lounge/library, and we are now very busy with advising and directing students on their options for using the services at our organization. I say it was a success!

Last week the new director of my IE3 internship program came to Tunisia to make a site visit, so the timing was perfect for him to see what I was able to accomplish during my short time with the organization. My supervisors were very pleased, and are making plans for my work to carry over to the next intern who will arrive the in the spring, in-sha'allah (God willing)!

I have finally figured out how to get the photos off of my Blackberry phone, which has served as my camera for the duration of my trip thus far. Here are some photos from the week:
The image at the beginning of this entry was the banner that was hung outside the Amideast Annix building that housed the American Corner. The text translates to "Open House Days", and was a great addition to the advertisement that we placed in the local newspapers and on Facebook.
Here are a few from Thursday, one of my favorite days during the week, when we presented on the story of Thanksgiving and had the students do puzzles and quizzes for candy prizes. The quiz was really hard . . . I didn't even know the answers to a lot of the more difficult questions. Maybe I need to brush up on my American history while I am here in Tunisia . . .
Friday's panel presentation, the event that I was looking the most forward to during the entire week, experienced a small hiccup prior to the start of the event when two of the panelists were not able to come at the last minute. As I frantically attempted to call my backup panelists, the facilitator of the event, Lee Jennings (also the director of Amideast), suggested that I fill in for the missing people because I fit the criteria and had the experience to present on the topic of international experience. I was very flattered and honored that my director would ask me to be part of the panel, so I happily obliged. The evening turned out to be very smooth, insightful, and allowed students to really see the impact of a study abroad experience in the short-term and long-term possibilities.
Here's to more successful events in the future!

Friday, November 19, 2010

International Education Week

During my time at the University of Oregon I worked as the Program Manager for an international lounge called the Mills International Center. I absolutely loved my job, the staff members, and the vast networking that I was able to do during my two years at the Mills Center. The experience that I gained from working with an amazing staff and team really set me up well for the work that I am doing here at Amideast, and has helped ease the transition as I began to receive more familiar tasks in coordination with the needs of Amideast.

I was overjoyed when my supervisor began to talk about International Edcuation Week and asked if I would like to take on this large project. At the Mills Center I successfully planned the week-long series of events two years in a row with the help of an amazing staff that really made the week a fantastic experience. Events ranged from informational and academic presentations to cultural discussions, fine arts displays, and informal concerts featuring music and dance from the geographic regional theme.

Here's a quote from the International Education Week (IEW) website http://iew.state.gov/index.cfm :

"International Education Week is an opportunity to celebrate the benefits of international education and exchange worldwide. This joint initiative of the U.S. Department of State and the U.S. Department of Education is part of our efforts to promote programs that prepare Americans for a global environment and attract future leaders from abroad to study, learn, and exchange experiences in the United States."

This totally fits with Amideast's motto, so I was thrilled to work on a project that was familiar and challenging at the same time. The catch with the request was I had only three weeks to plan the events, and the only records for reference were from last year's activities. So, I dove right in to the process of planning the theme for the week, structuring the events with presentations and fun activities, reserving the rooms throughout the Amideast complex, ordering advertising space in local newspapers, and working with Amideast professional staff to help me navigate the logistics of really getting the word out on these events. I have learned that an event planner is never alone is his/her work because there are always people and resources to assist in the process.

Normally, International Education Week (IEW) happens this year from 15 - 19, but in Tunisia the academic break falls exactly during this week, so we pushed the events back a week. Afterall, it is the students that we want to target for our events, so we have got to make sure that they are going to be available to attend. Each day is broken up by a different theme related to the services offered through Amideast and the programs that we encourage students to take advantage of during their high school and college years. Here is the schedule of events that will take place next week at Amideast:

International Education Week 2010

Monday Nov 22 – Exchange Program Day

4:00 – 5:00: Presentation of study abroad programs available to Tunisian high school and university students for study in the United States
5:00 – 6:00: Exchange Program Alumni Social Hour (meet students who participated in these very programs)

Tuesday Nov 23 – American University Admissions Day

3:00 – 4:00: Presentation on three branches of university-level study in Humanities, Engineering, and Business (Amideast Villa)
4:00 – 5:00: Workshop on How to Write a College-level Essay and Statement of Purpose
5:00 – 6:00: Presentation by the US Embassy on the Process of Obtaining a US Visa for study in the US

Mecredi Nov 24 – Extracurricular Activities Day

4:00 – 5:30: Presentation on extra curricular activities that contribute to a diverse experience at an American University (Topics include student groups
(Fraternities, Sororities, Campus Government), clubs for international students, Music and Dance Groups, and Toastmasters (public speaking))
6:00 – 8:00: Film screening followed by discussion

Thursday Nov 25 – Thanksgiving Day

4:00 – 4:45: Presentation on the history of Thanksgiving and the modern day traditions in America
4:45 – 5:30: Interactive Thanksgiving Day quiz

Friday Nov 26 – Career Day

3:00 – 4:00: Workshop on How to Compose an American CV/resume and the Process of Obtaining Letters of Recommendation
4:00 – 5:00: Interactive Session on Professional Job Interviews
5:30 – 7:30: Panel Presentation “The Effect of a Study Abroad Experience on a Professional Career”, bi-lingual in English and French (Amideast Main building)

I am very excited to see how everything turns out and to see a project from start to finish here at Amideast. The event that I am most eager to attend and experience is the bi-lingual presentation on Friday. My vision was a presentation for both students and their parents that shows generationally the impact of a study abroad experience on an individual's personal and professional life, and ultimately motivate the student to participate in a study abroad experience. Its going to be a long week, but I am looking forward to seeing the results of my work over these past few weeks.

Eid Mabrouk, finding a Tunisian host family, slaughtering a ram in the process

Eid al-Kebir with Rania's family

I was invited to my friend Rania's house for the feast of Eid al-Kabir, which I gladly accepted as part of my promise to myself to always jump at participating in any family functions.

During this feast that happens 70 days after Ramadan, Muslims remember the story of the willingness of the prophet Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac (Ishmael) to prove his obediance to God. As Abraham prepared to complete the sacrifice, God sent an angel to stop him and instead replace his son Isaac with a ram. It is for this reason that lamb is eaten for the feast of Eid. There is also a general sense of goodwill towards others as the meat is shared with the poor and those who have no families with whom to celebrate.

During the taxi ride to Rania's neighborhood, she chided to me that her younger sisters (13 and 19) were so excited to have a "real American" over at their house for Eid. They were amazed and delighted that I spoke French AND was learning Arabic. After meeting three sets of neighbors along the way who had heard about the "little American" coming to visit, I finally arrived at Rania's house and was warmly welcomed by the family. I brought gifts of Stash Tea (packaged in my very own Portland, OR) and a 60-piece puzzle of the United States for the family. Both were big hits. The girls presented me with lovely gifts of traditional Tunisian pottery, a beautiful scarf with traditional designs, and a wall hanging with a colorful hand-sewn floral pattern that the older sister had worked on all week. Each gift was individually wrapped in Micky Mouse wrapping paper. Nice touch. I truly felt like a special guest in their home from the moment I arrived.

When I entered the family's carport, I looked over to see a very shy ram tied to a post. Although I wanted to pet him I knew that his fate would be arriving soon, so it was probably best to not become attached. The daughters asked if I was going to watch their father slaughter the ram and I answered, "Of course! I want to be part of all the work today". Rainia told me that she was surprised because many Americans that she had met didn't even like the idea of seeing fish with their heads attached in a restaurant, so she assumed that I would not want to watch this particular part of the event. Well, I would like to think that I am eager and willing to experience new things every day, especially while here in Tunisa.

Before the father slaughtered the ram in the carport, he cleaned the blade and asked for God's blessing not only on the meal that was about to be prepared, but also that it may nourish all who take part in the preparing and consuming of the meat. Although it was a little difficult for me to watch, I was very impressed with the matter-of-fact attitude of the family that only comes from familiarity with the process of preparing and consuming meat. The mother explained to me that every part of the animal would be used in one form or another. All members of the family were present to help clean the animal, skin it, and begin preparing for the meal together, and I was happy to help out in any way possible. The mother was very happy to have an extra person around who wanted to learn everything about the process. I decided to help her with cleaning the organs, stomach, and small intestines of the ram since the girls expressed NO interest in this task. Hey, someone has got to do it, and I learned a lot of new vocabulary words in the process so I think everything worked out in the end.

After more than three hours of cleaning, grilling, and simmering we all sat down to the table in their small living room to share our first course together. There was so much work to be done during the day that we broke it up by smaller meals. The first was chunks of lamb that had been rubbed with rosemary and herbs from the family's garden, salata mishweeyah (a mix of pounded grilled peppers, onions, tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil) and h'rooz (a spicy red pepper paste mixed with olive oil). All of this topped with a great basket of french bread made for a fantastic meal. The sounds of hungry people eating food that is fresh and made with love is the best sound in the whole world.

After this first course, we cleaned up the car port, cleaned the kitchen, and sat down to watch some TV together. I do not have TV at my apartment in Tunis, so I have not seen the ads for the special tv programs that were made especially for Eid when families have time to spend together. We watched a Turkish sitcom that was dubbed in Arabic with French subtitles. Just another example that globalization is always at work, my friends. The daughters had so much fun asking me to repeat words in Arabic, especially the ones that were more difficult to pronounce. They would giggle and ask me, "muara-thahneeya, Addree-ane!" (Say it again, Adriane!)

As the night progressed, I began to think about heading home and wondered if there would be any taxis or buses available. When I finally asked, my host mom told me that there would not be many left, and offered to make up a bed for me so I could spend the night. I totally took the offer and stayed up late with Rania talking about traveling, languages, family, love, and dreams for the future. All in English and French. It was wonderful, and really showed me a new side of Tunisian society that I have not experienced until now. This was the "warmth" and "welcome" that the guidebooks and websites had been talking about for so long. This was what I have been missing as I walk through the crowded city streets and try to ignore the stares and unfriendly attitudes on the metro. I finally felt more comfortable with the idea that I actually live in Tunisia now. I live and work in Tunisia.

That night I dreamed in Arabic for the first time since I arrived here. Although I do not remember much about the dream as I write this entry, I do remember waking up in the morning and easily transitioning into Arabic from English. That was a really good feeling. My host mother made us a late breakfast and we lounged around the house for the morning, re-doing the United States puzzle a few times with more rounds of questions for me about the US. I was happy to talk about my country, and once again learned new vocabulary in the process.

That afternoon when I finally left my friend's house I felt more solid, as if I had established new roots in Tunisia. I was invited back for a weekend in December, and plan to make the most of my time with Rania and her family. As we walked to the main street together, I noticed that we were walking very close to each other and talking as if we were dear friends. It was very comfortable, and I consider myself quite lucky to have been given the opportunity to spend time with her family during this celebration. The gifts from the family and the containers of leftovers in the fridge are all reminders to me of their incredible generosity.