Sunday, October 31, 2010

Carthage and Sidi Bou Said

Last weekend I was able to check one site off of my personal list of "Things to do while in Tunisia": Carthage!

The ruins of the ancient city of Carthage are, in fact, a suburb of the sprawling city of Tunis. This made it convenient because I was able to hop in a taxi cab and twenty minutes late was standing in front of the tour buses waiting to enter the city of ruins. Cool fact: The city of Carthage is known as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which makes it protected and easily accessible to tourists. I was finally able to be a tourist today, so my American companions didn't roll their eyes at me in embarrassment as I captured our experiences with my camera through many pictues. There are times when one must take a "mental picture" in order to remember it in the heart, but there are other times when the sheer magnitude of the scenery mustbe captured on film for future reflection.

A little history first. Carthage, pronounced "kar-TAJ" by Arabic, French and other non-English speakers, was once the center of the ancient world. The first civilization that developed within the area are referred to as "Punic" (Phoenician, or Carthaginian). According to Roman legend, the city was founded by Phoenician colonists from the city of Tyre under the command of Elissa, or Queen Dido, as referenced in Virgil's epic poem "The Aeneid". Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the city of Carthage proved to be an advantagous position to control the trading routes and military expansion, which led to many conflicts between the Romans, Greeks, and Phoenicians over possession of the city. After several battles back and forth between the Romans and Phoenicians for supremecy, the Romans attacked Carthage and decimated the entire city. Houses were burned, buildings crumbled, and civilians were either killed or taken as slaves. All that remains now is the ruins of a once great city that was ruled by a once great civilization.

We visited the Antonine Baths near the sea and the ruins of several tombs and prayer sites. It was an amazing feeling walking amongst the ruins knowing that these fantastic events occured upon the same stone paths that I was walking on. The small scale model reconstructions created by archeaologists who were working on a dig site near the ruins gave me an idea of the vast expansion of the city and the fortification that once protected it's inhabitants from harm. Apparently it was not enough against the Roman army.

For more information on Carthage, visit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carthage

After Carthage we visited the chic coastal town of Sidi Bou Said for a tour of the town and to enjoy the sunset over the Meditteranean. We walked up cobblestone paths through markets to the section of town that overlooked the sea for the best view. The area really reminded me of what I have always pictured Greece to look like with the white buildings and blue shutters and palm trees. The view from our cafe balcony was breathtaking, and I enjoyed my hot mint tea very much as the sea breeze cooled the evening air. I couldn't help but smile as I enjoyed the beautiful scenery and the company of fellow Americans.

JCI Event with Special VIP Privilges

Apologies for the lack of entries lately. After being sick, I recovered and life has been a whirlwind ever since. Let's start wher I left off and catch up from there . . .

At the request of the director of Amideast, I attended an event at the Minicple Theater in downtown Tunis called the FYOTD (translated as the five opportunistic disabled youth of Tunisia) sponsored by JCI (Junior Chamber International). My task was to meet and mingle with the people at the event and find out if any of the nominees were of high school age, and if they would be interested in applying to study abroad in the US as part of the YES program through Amideast. I was happy to oblige . . . requesting that I attend a fancy event and mingle with motivated youth and professionals who are interested in bringing about change in the world? Ok, I'm in!

A little background first: JCI is a world-wide organization that provides development opportunities to young people to encourage activisim and positive change. I mentioned that I was attending the FYOTD event to my supervisor, and she suggested that I meet up with her neighbor later that day who was also attending the event. I was lucky enough to spend the afternoon with her and learn about her fulbright experience teaching Arabic while studying english at a university in the American South. As I am writing this entry I do not recall which southern university she taught at, so it shall remain a mystery.

The FYOTD ceremony was held at the beautiful Municiple Theater in downtown Tunis. It was built at the turn of the 20th century in classic French architecture style, and the balcony looks out over the famous bustling Avenue Habib Bourguiba. I was also lucky enough that my Tunisian companion's cousin happened to be one of the organizers of the event, so we were ushered around to the back of the theatre in order to enter through a seperate door. After coming up a sindy staircase,we were led to a VIP seating area with nice red velvet chairs. I was so surprised to have such fancy treatment, and repeatedly thanked everyone who worked the VIP area that night. We were given bundles of jasmine flowers and refreshments as part of the event as well. What can I say, it's good to have connections!

The ceremony honored the five most outstanding disabled youth in Tunisia in select categories of higher education, athletics, fine arts, computer science and communication, and traditional arts. Between each nominee, a famour singer, musician, or poet would perform his/her latest work for the audience as a form of support for the youth and to keep the event young and hip. These local artists added an interesting flavor to the overal atmophere of the event. A short introductory video was made in Arabic about each student explaining their disability and the reason for their nomination. I attempted to gleen as much information as I could from the videos and context, but was grateful to have a Tunisian companion for the evening. After the video, each student was asked to come up on stage in order to be presented with an award, and asked to speak a little about their plans for the future in regards to their specific field.

Nominees included a master's student in a wheel chair, a foot painter (an artist who paints with his/her feet due to lack of motor control in the arms), an olympic runner who is blind, a computer science engineer with severe speech disabilities, and a traditional textile and pottery artist who is blind. Each student was unique in their own pursuit of their passions, and from what I understood from their personal statements, each had overcome difficulties to establish themselves as "normal" in society.

One of the most touching points was when the wife of the computer software engineer shared the story of how they met and fell in love. They both worked for the same company and had worked together on several projects. She was inspired by his kindness and generosity to those around him, despite people not always providing the same respect and dignity when they initially interacted with him. In spite of this adversary, "he walks the walk and talks the talk", she said, "and for that he is better than any 'normal' person I know and an inspiration for everyone". His story was really quite amazing, and he looked so humble as he accepted the award, and so proud as he turned to his wife and smiled at her as she squeezed his hand. Ah, sooooo wonderful!

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Alcohol in Islam

Correction from a recent post: the production and consumption of alcohol is generally forbidden in Islam, but as we see in Tunisia, the rules are a little looser. In my sick state my editing skills were apparently not up to par. Sorry for any confusion!

Monday, October 11, 2010

Bar with Americans, SAT's, Sick all weekend

Alrighty, so for my first actual free weekend in Tunis I had these grand plans to go out with my new American English teacher friends, discover more parts of the sprawling city of Tunis, and eat some really good food. Well, I managed to do about half of the above...the first part of the weekend was fun and exciting at least.

Friday evening I was invited out to a nice restarant/bar on the other side of town called Le Beouf sur la Toit, translated as the Cow on the Roof (and yes, there was a large statue of a cow on the roof of the restaurant). After a crazy taxi ride where the driver claimed he "didn't understand my French" and coincidentally took me halfway across town in the wrong direction (I think he was trying to make a few extra dinars off of me for the cab fare), I arrived at the restaurant to my friends waiting for me outside the gates. I was so happy to finally get out of that cab!

Quick note: In my pre-departure research, I discovered that although Tunisia is a Muslim country, alcohol is still readily available and and enjoyed by both foreigners and locals. Tunisia is especially famous for its rose wine, and it is sold throughout the Mediterranean. Normally, the production, selling, and consumption of alcohol is prohibited in Islam. As I have learned, the further away a country is from the "Islamic cultural and religious center" of the Arab World, (which for my intent and purposes is Saudi Arabia) the looser the interpretations are for what is and is not prohibited. Noted, Tunisia.

Also, the cultural dress code for women is not as strict as I was told when I departed. I was told that I must have my legs covered at all times down to me knees, which does actually reflect the fashion and modesty values here in Tunis. However, in watching what other women wear I am allowed to wear t-shirts and conservative tank tops. This comes as a relief, because it has been very warm here since I arrived.

Anyways, the bar experience was very fun. The whole room was downstairs and with a decorative theme of chrome, metal, and black floral designs. The bar itself was set directly in front of a stage where a locally famous band was playing covers of American Rock songs. The guys were total rockers who wore black skinny jeans, torn t-shirts, and smoked cigarettes with an "oh-so-effortlessly-cool" attitude, which I found to be quite hilarious. We danced and cheered them on throughout the night before catching a taxi cab ride home at around 2am. I arrived back to my appartment smelling of cigarette smoke and the sweat of 100 other young Tunisian rock enthusiasts, yet i had a smile on my face as my head hit the pillow.

The next morning came earlier than expected, as my alarm went off at 6:45am. I had been offered to opportunity to proctor the Official SAT exam to Tunisian students who desired to pursue college degrees in the US. Of course I was going to jump at the chance, especially since they were going to pay me in addition to counting the experience as part of my internship. So, I arrived on time to pick up my exam manual materials, the packet of official test booklets and answer packets, and then head up to my room. I never realized how "official" everything really had to be when it came to these exams, especially when they happen on the same day across the world. I was to write down the passport IDs of every student that came into my testing room, document the order and direction that the test packets were distributed, and the exact length of time of each testing period down to the minute. Although there were a lot of details, it was a good experience to give such an important test. It allowed me to reflect on taking that very test several years ago and all the preparations that were made in order to achieve a good score. What really impressed me was that, although most of the students were from the International American school (mainly children of embassy and foreign officer parents), there were a handfull of Tunisian students who took the exact same test. Now, I remember the test being challegning and difficult, especially the essay section. I can't imagine taking it in another language . . . and that's exactly what these students were doing. Bravo and high five to them. I wish them all the best.
So, I got to be all official and read the texts like:

"you will have 25 minutes to complete section 1. Do not begin until I tell you to do so. Make sure that you are using No.2 pencil. You are allowed to use a calculator only if you are working on a math section. If you are not, place the calculator under your desk at this time. Open your test booklets to section 1. You may read the directions and begin at this time."

I felt so . . . teacherly! Another one I liked was:

"Stop now and put your pencils down. Place your answer sheet inside your test booklet and close the cover. If you were using your calculator, place it on top on your booklet. We will now have a five minute break. You may exit the room and use the restroom, but you must remain quiet as other students may still be testing at this time. You have five minutes [insert teacherly stare or confidence and supreme reign]."

I don't feel like Im a very commanding presence in real life, so I treated the situation a bit like an acting audition where I had to convince the students that I was a serious professor instead of a bubbly intern who is learning the ropes as she goes along. It's all part of the job,and it was a good experience.

Afterwards, I met up with some Tunisian girlfriends that I met from the American Corner (see previous post) for lunch. I was starting to feel a little sick to my stomach, so I shopped with them for a little bit in the market before calling my afternoon short with them and catching an early cab home. When I arrived back to my apartment I was uncomfortably warm and really dizzy. I ended up falling asleep almost as soon as I sat down on my bed, and woke up three hours later when my roommates came in to check on me. I was definitely sick with shaky fever-like symptoms and all the lovely uncomfortably intestinal problems that come with getting used to a new developing country. Let's just say I only slept on the bathroom floor once this weekend, which was plenty enough.

My roomies were great and gave me some pills that helped settle my stomach and reduce my fever on Sunday after I had gotten close to everything out of my system. I decided to take Monday off from work too and just let my body rest. I was able to sleep, drink lots of water, skype my family, and generally enjoy my quiet apartment during the day. My other roommate stayed home for most of the day with what we think might be tonsilitis, so that made for some interesting conversations and sharing our sick stories over cups of chamomile tea. Although it is terrible to be sick, I saw it as a good experience because it means that my body is "clearing everything out" and starting from new. It also means that I probably wont get sick again for a while and my general ability to digest foods will be improved from here on out.

I just checked my skype message board, and my boss sent me a message checking in on me. She offered to bring me medicine and/or take me to the doctor at any time if i needed it. That made me feel a lot better about my whole internship experience. It's encouraging to know that your boss cares about your wellbeing outside of your time at work.

Alright, let's get out the map and plan a trip for next weekend when Im done being sick!

Aliens, Karaoke, and the Everlasting "Coolness" of Michael Jackson

I started going to the Conversation Circle sessions at the American Corner last week, and it has been awesome. The American Corner is an independently run library and cultural center sponsored by the US Embassy and Amideast, and happens to be located in the building right next to my office. Here is a link to their blog if you want to check it out:

http://americancornertunis.blogspot.com/

The center reminds me a lot of the Mills International Center where I previously worked as the Program Manager at the University of Oregon. In a similar fashion, the Center is a space for students, staff, and faculty to come and lounge as well as learn about a different culture. With an Amideast Library card, visitors can check out any of the books, magazines, CDs, and DVDS from America. The American Corner puts on various events throughout the year geared toward the Amideast students to engage their English skills in discussions, workshops, and through presentations by community members and study abroad advisors.

I was invited to join in on the sessions this week by the intern who runs the Conversation Circles because they are always looking for more native English speakers to interact with the students. The topic of the day was "Aliens: are they real?", and was presented with a news article documenting mysterious lights that thousands of people saw over China a few years ago. Each student receives a copy of the discussion article with a list of key vocabulary words and a copy of the discussion questions. The level of English that these students showed was intermediate to high with good use of the vocabulary, which impressed me. I figured that the group would be split in half over the issue of the actual existance of aliens with one side agreeing that some form of extra-terrestrial life could exist, and the other half not believing in anything that they could not see. That is my experience with the issue divide in America.

However, the majority of the students said that they did not believe in the existance of aliens because they were not mentioned in the Qur'an. I thought this interpretation was interesting considering I saw no immediate religious connection, so I asked a few of the more talkative students what they thought about the existance of angels. "Perhaps angels could be aliens," I suggested. "Nope", they said, "that is completely different". Other students chimed in to say, "Perhaps the existance of other life was possible because God was so infinite in his wisdom that he could have created things that we do not yet understand." These same students were quick to add, "this does not mean that these hypothetical beings are 'god-like' in any sense". Again, a completely different take on the issue that I had never thought to explore. The overall conversation was very interesting to follow, and it gave me a good chance to see who the better speakers were in the group of about 20, and who were the quieter ones that I could seek out after the discussion to speak with in a smaller group. I remember what is was like to be in a foreign language conversation group and not quiet catch everything that was said. I remember wanting to participate, if only people would speak a little slower. s-l-o-w-e-r. It can be quite intimidating for some people, especailly with native speakers, so Im glad to help out in any way that I can. I plan on going back to the Conversation Cirlce at least once a week to join in on the discussions. I have already made a few friends who will come in handy as i begin to explore the city further.

One American Corner event that I thought was a great success was the monthly Karaoke Session that was started this fall. I attended the first session on Friday October 1, and the energy in the room was fantastic. Over 70 middle school and high school students crowded into the small library/study space to participate. Students signed up to sing their favorite American pop songs in front of their friends while the lyrics were projected onto the wall for everyone to sing along with. Those same students from the Conversation Circle were there singing along to many of the songs. Groups of students were allowed to sign up together, so at times there were three or four students crowded around the microphone enjoying their stage time as their friends cheered them on and sang to "Hotel California", "Hey Jude", and "Wild Thing" among many others. One kid, Mohammad, even got up and volunteered his dancing skills as he showed off to the crowd singing "The Way You Make Me Feel" by Michael Jackson. Imagine a room full of screaming teenage Tunisian girls that ensued. Yep, that was it. Mohammad must have thought he was the coolest 16 year old as he attempted to moonwalk across the stage. And at that moment, he probably was.

More to come soon. So much to catch up on from this week. Thanks for all the facebook messages of encouragement!

Jogging Adventure and Idiot Taxi Drivers

Week two of my time in Tunisa!

Im finally getting more used to my surroundings, and have actually been able to venture out on my own a bit this week. On Wednesday I came home from work and felt the need to get out and excercise. Now, its uncommon to see people running in the streets around Tunis like one would see in the US, and even more uncommon to see a female jogging or lifting weights. The only places that I have seen to do these kind of activities are private gyms that require an expensive membership, but I was determined to find a place to jog and just enjoy the fresh air. As I was taking a cab home, I noticed the same building that I have passed everyday since I moved into my new apartment. The building complex consists of a large marble dome with several layers of balconies and steps leading up to the entrance. There is a park in the surrounding area with trees and manicured lawns which led me to assume that it was a mosque or some type of government building. Nope, it was in fact a swimming pool with gym facilities!

I took a stroll down to the complex after dinner that even just to check out the area. I knew that if I wore any sort of form fitting running apparel I would get lots of stares, but by this point I didnt even care. So, I put in my ipod and set off for the park. At one point, after thinking that I wasn't going to see any females doing this sort of activity, a woman came jogging around the corner wearing black puma running shoes, running tights, a loose long sleeve shirt, a hijab, and her ipod. I could not have been happier and thought to myself, "ok, if SHE can run here, than I certainly can as well". I felt so good after coming home from the trip, and I plan to check out the surrounding area next week as well.

The taxi cab rides here are always very interesting to me because one nevers knows what to expect. Of course you will eventually get to your destination, but not necessarily in the quickest fashion. Sometimes, they will conveniently "forget where they are going" in the middle of the trip only to remember when they are about 6 blocks off track. Of course, I am a foreigner so therefore I obviously have the means to pay, right? Also, one never knows what the conversation is going to entail. I am usually interested in the taxi cab driver's lives, so i try to strike up a conversation if they have enough French to sustain it. My Arabic is still mediocre, and the drivers usually take great pleasure in laughing at my "cute American accent". The other day I got in the cab and the normal questions began:

- "Oh, you look foreign, pretty lady. Where are you from?"
- "Why are you here? For how long will you stay in Tunisia?"
- "Did you come all by yourself? Who do you live with?"
- "Can I have your number/can I take you out to coffee to practice my English?"

I usually try to steer the conversation so that the last question is not asked. Im ot looking for any dates here, fellas. I usually tell them that I have a company phone and Im not allowed to givethe number out. That usually shuts down any further attempts. I had one driver that attempted to have a political discussion with me on my short ride to work about the US electoral system and the legitimacy of Barak Obama's term. I asked him to clarify, and her said that he was amazed that the US would elect a Muslim president who was not even born in the US. I rolled my eyes and thought, "Really? That opinion has reached all the way to Tunisia?" I reminded him that there was not much that we as Americans could do about it because he was already in office. He then commented that America was the land of folly because even body-building movie stars could become governors and make political decisions. I laughed at the Arnold Swarzenagor as California state governor reference, and then added "it sounds like America is the land of opportunity where everyone has a chance to achieve something great" before handing him the fair and hopping out of the cab. He might have shouted something sly at me, but I didnt care. I know that he would not be able to comment about the state of affairs within his own country for fear of censorship laws, so he felt the need to critique my own country. Smooth move, dude.

This is making me look more and more into taking the metro. Although it is more crowded and I will have to deal with people who are literally all around me, there will be much less conversations and more freedom to get where I need to in a less expensive way. Now, all I need to do is find me a local to show me a few routes . . .

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

. . . and for the everyday details

Big news from the weekend: I have a new apartment!

I am now living with two American English teachers who have been with AMIDEAST for a few weeks now. It was great to arrive at the new place and be greated by familiar faces. I instantly liked the space when I was shown to my room with a private balcony overlooking the street and surrounding garden. The apartment is furnished and clean, and has a wonderful kitchen with an additional balcony that overlooks the city.

For the first time in an entire week I was able to prepare a meal for myself in my kitchen with produce that I purchased from the produce stand nearby. It was wonderful to walk in and see all kinds of familiar and unfamiliar varieties of fresh fruits and vegetables at very inexpensive prices. I loved smelling the parsley and tasting the sunrise colored pears when I returned home. I think I need to get one of those woven baskets that I can take with me to buy my produce from now on. There is something so soothing for me in preparing a meal; the chopping of the vegetables, the crackling of a gas stove, the sizzling of olive oil, and the aroma of spices that drift through the house. I love every aspect of the experience. As with my tradition, I brought my Anthony Bourdain calendar with me to Tunisia, and it is currently hanging in the window watching over us in true cooking diety fashion. I am such a big fan of his show and of his adventures that he has been lucky enough to share with the world!

I am finally unpacked as well, which is a relief. I do not have to go searching through my suitcases whenever I get ready in the morning. And it's so nice to have my own space for my stuff. I hung up the picture of the rainbow that the little girl drew for me in the Italian port when i was waiting for the ferry. She was so adorable, and the picture is just priceless!

Pictures of my new place are on their way, i just have to figure out how to get them off my phone. Technology is only helpful sometimes. By the way, Im really starting to enjoy this whole tri-lingual experience. I will speak a combination of French-Arabic-English when I return . . . Fr-Arab-ish!

Finally, I have projects!

As the second week of my internship at Amideast begins, I have started acquiring more projects and my time is always spent learning from everything around me. At times, the days seem soooo long because my brain never turns off. I am channeling my inner exchange student by "soaking up" everything around me . . . yes, i must BE the sponge!

I participated in a conference call yesterday with representatives from Amideast organizations all over the Arab world. It was incredible that people from Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, Israel, Egypt, Tunisia, and Iraq, Kuwait, and Yemen were all able to tune in with the main office in Washington D.C. for the meeting. The advisors wer going over details concerning the upcoming deadlines for the various exchange and service programs that Amideast offers. For the next six months, I will be part of the contact team responsible for the Youth Exchange and Service (YES) Program and for the Tomorrow’s Leaders Grant and Scholarship Program. I am also working with another intern organizing the Competitive College Club that assists students in preparing to apply for grants and scholarships to study abroad in the Arab world and in the US.

Quick note: when I say Arab world, I am referring to the collection of Arabic-speaking countries in North Africa, the Middle East, and parts of Western Asia.


See this link for more details: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arab_World

The YES program is a scholarship program that allows academically-driven high school students with advanced levels of English to spend their junior year of secondary school in an American high school. The students attend youth leadership training programs throughout their year “abroad” and participate in community service projects in their respected regions. In the process these students are able to teach their host families, classmates, and community about their country and culture. My role in all of this will be advising the candidates of their portfolios and helping them prepare for the English Proficiency exams and the interview. Sounds like a pretty sweet deal to me.

If you want to read more about the program, check out this site:

http://www.amideast.org/tunisia/academic-and-cultural-exchange/youth-exchange-and-study-yes-program

The Tomorrow’s Leaders scholarship Program is through the US State Department which assists current and recent high school graduate students from the Arab world to study at one of three American Universities in the Middle East: The American University in Cairo (AUC), Lebanese American University (LAU), and the American University of Beirut (AUB). Not only does this program help students from traditionally underserved backgrounds pay for school, but it also arranges for internships in the Middle East or the US as part of their academic program. As with the YES program, students must be academically driven with advanced levels of English to apply for this program. My responsibilities with this program will be similar to my involvement with the YES Program.

If you want to read more about the program, check out this site:

http://mepi.state.gov/exchanges/tlsp/

So this has all been exciting for me because I now have things to be responsible for. It’s a good feeling to have a sense of purpose, even if it is small. For now I am trying to learn as much as I can about the projects in order to best serve the applicants. This starts with getting to know the students who attend events and use the services at the American Corner. Funded by the US government and the Tunisian Ministry of Education, the American Corner is essentially a lounge area where students and teachers can check out the resources, use the computers, and practice English. The American Corner hosts events throughout the week including English Conversation Hour, American Film afternoons, and even monthly Karaoke sessions. Awesome!

For a little more information, check out this link:

(http://www.amideast.org/abroad/programs/tunisia/learn-serve-tunisia/program-management).

The environment in my office is entertaining, to say the least. Everyone is tri-lingual and effortlessly floats between English, French, and Tunsi, the Tunisian dialect of Arabic that sounds like French, Arabic, and Italian mixed together. They laugh because I only understand two of the languages, but i don't think any of their conversations have been at my expense. Everyone seems genuinely interested to make sure to include me in one what they do and offer their assistance when I really look like Im lost. Im off to a good start on this adventure.